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s/v Code Blue Progress 12-1-12 December 1, 2012

Posted by steveandjudy in Code Blue 2012.
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Well. we’re buried in boat projects. But seeing the light of day I hope. Just thought I’d send a short note of our progress.

We had a small leak in our new thru hull I had put in at the last haul out in August 2011. Luckily the leak was in the plumbing after the thru hull. One of the techs on the boat recently suggested using 3M 4200, his special secret. I had used special plumbers seal, thus the leak. The 3M worked great and only a couple of hours taking the joints apart and putting back together. It was such a small leak it looked like it was repairing itself, but then some days the evaporation wasn’t doing the job. You could see green stains on the thru hull too. Kind of a tell tail sign.

1) Repaired small leak in deep water thru hull for water maker & forward head toilet. With this deepwater access you now can saltwater flush the toilet on any tack, previously not possible.

2a) Nav station monitor is now 12 volt and has a RAM mount # RAM-101U-D-246 we used for the back, now hangs from the recently installed (2b) cubby hole storage above the nav station.

3) TV has a mount at the settee table, so TV is stored in the table when at sea. The old cardboard box is gone, we used to have on the settee port side.

4) Work light and cockpit light are now hooked up and working. Awesome for BBQ, or if we ever bring in the dinghy motor at night.

5) Heading sensor (rate compass/ Electronic Compass, depends on who you talk to) for NEMA 2000 is hooked up and ready to calibrate, we need to do at least two, 360 degree turns.

6) Auto pilot to windvane is done and just needs the same calibration turns as # 5. This is a secondary auto pilot with a lot less electrical usage of only 12 to 18 watts.

7) Alpenglow light is installed in our port laz area.

8) Salt water washdown pump is installed near the forward head area, and has the connector outlet hose in the anchor locker starboard side. Really cool for washing the mud off the chain and anchor. This is a backup water fight hose with way more power than the freshwater one at the stern. After install, I realized an accumulator tank was needed also to cut down water hammering. So kind of two projects in one.

9) Wires to new cockpit lights have been sealed.

10) Bypass lube oil filter has been installed, just a few minor items to go, like change the full flow lube oil filter.

11) Changed the fresh water stern shower to a garden hose fitting with a shut off valve. The old shower sprayer was leaking and wasn’t very versatile. Now we can spray down the whole boat with fresh water if we like, take showers in the stern steps or cockpit. Have water fights?

12) Visited San Diego Sea World. Not a boat project but this took all day last Sunday on the 25th and very cool Judy says. Thanksgiving was great with our cousins in the area too.

13) Bolt & screw bins, would you believe $180 in s/s bolts and screws, plus plastic bins. It sure doesn’t look like much, but already they have been helpful. I now have a bin for fuses too.

14) Sun cover for dinghy fuel tank sewn by Judy.

15) Sun cover for life raft sewn by Judy.

16) Updated our EPIRB registration.

17) New O-rings installed for forward head.

18) Electrical dry box cover under the master berth installed. I took a bunch of wires out of the bilge area and set up a dry box electrical area for mast wires and such under the berth near mast.

19) Copper strap cover completed under master berth. This was a radio counterpoise copper strap that kept getting chewed up by boxes and such in our berth storage area.

20) Fixed broken door latch under master berth near mast and put Loctite on the metal latch portion to keep it from falling apart. Three other door latches need the Loctite treatment.

21) New Fusion radio and digital music player installed and working. This is kind of cool, but now we need to convert our CDs to digital thumb drives or I-pods etc. Not that we need it but you can also listen to VHF weather stations on this radio.

22) Second jackline sewn up and ready for install.

23) Tuna and dorado meat hook setup and a few tackle jigs. Now all I need is a broom handle or bamboo stick for a gaff hook. Having fish would help too.

Well it’s official, our Dell computer with XP is toast. We were able to put the data on an external hard drive today. For a while we were able to have it run and transfer some data that won’t run on Windows 7 into a document that will run. This really cuts into our picture sending to blog situation.

We hear Seattle has been getting quite a bit of rain lately. I made a call to a friend (in Seattle) and sure enough we had a bit of rain ourselves here due to the phone call, during the conversation, they had 1 1/2 inches for the day. The weather gal says only .07 of an inch here. I think we had more. Just a few miles away they only got .01″ of rain. This is our first true rainfall since we’ve been here I’d say.

One situation that is holding us up. My propeller needs lubing once a year since it is a feathering 3-blade aperture A model, and now way past due. The brand is Hydralign from Australia, www.hydralignprop.com and a company called JBC Engineering. I’ve ordered special s/s “grub” screws and 8 mm x 1.25 grease fittings from them but so far they haven’t show up. I’ve tried getting locally to no avail so far. We found the grub screw on the boat, but I’d like to have spare sets also and still need the grease fitting.

Diesel is available locally at a boat dock, special price for sailboats for $4.56, not sure if tax in included but I suspect not so add another 7.75%. At auto fuel stations it’s available for about $4.09 with all taxes included. But schlepping 150 gals or so isn’t feasible, especially since I don’t have any fuel jugs.

Happy Holidays,

Steve and Judy
s/v Code Blue (still in San Diego but great weather)
svcodeblue.wordpress.com

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Comments»

1. solpurpose - December 3, 2012

Steve & Judy,

So many questions, so little time! I will just ask one thing of today’s post.. can you give me more information on the salt water wash down pump. We live in Texas and the bottom is very muddy. Contemplating installing a wash down pump to clean the anchor and rode as well. We will be converting the FWD head to a fresh water electric model for marina stays (will cut down on the funky smell) and using the rear head for offshore “work”. Will therefore be able to use the thru hull that was for the FWD head to supply the wash down pump. Planning to install the pump just forward of the head in the access cupboard for the other thru hulls and run the hose up the back of the sliding door cupboard at sink level and out to the top of the anchor locker.
Now the questions 🙂

1. Is this similar to what you did?
2. Did you get good pressure from your installation
3. what was the make and model of your unit?
4. can you elaborate on the accumulator tank and what was required?

Thank you in advance,

Moray & Debbie

s/v Sol Purpose
1994 Caliber 40

captnmike - December 4, 2012

1. Is this similar to what you did?

Fairly similar, I used the left side, inside the most forward door, by gluing a plywood section with 5 minute epoxy glue, to the starboard rough side of the shower wall. Then mounted the pump and accumulator tank to the plywood. I’d already put in the motor pump, then later realized I needed an accumulator tank due major water hammering. Tank solved this. So put it sideways, horizontal under the pump. I used the thru-hull hose that used to go to the forward head. Some people use a 3 way valve, or some kind of valves to also connect to the pressurized cold fresh water. So they can switch from fresh water or salt water to wash stuff down. Maybe in the future but parts for the fresh water hoses/tubing are hard to get a hold of so far. Note: I’ve attached a picture I have of the pump and accumulator tank looking at it thru the door way. I also fixed up the stern shower so I can connect a garden hose that can be run forward for fresh water flushing.

2. Did you get good pressure from your installation

I thought I got good pressure. Whale Pump high of 45 pounds of pressure down to 25 pounds it said. It was a WK1815 model, rated at 4.75 gals per minute pump, with automatic pressure switch, inlet strainer. I wasn’t impressed by their nozzle and hose that came with the unit. More for shower spray. Be very careful to not run the pump dry very long. The pump says it is for fresh water, but really what they mean is it’s a pump for clean water versus say holding tank fluids, or bilge water. With a garden hose nozzle, I can spray about 25′ or so with nozzle set on jet or with one on hard narrow squirting. This distance is a guess, maybe I should measure this. I have a water pressure gauge but haven’t hooked it up yet.

3. What was the make and model of your unit?

Whale Pump, WK1815. Not too important here. Main thing is to have about 5 gals of pumping capability per minute or more at about 45 pounds of pressure. I got this one only because it was on sale for $100 new. And it wasn’t too amp hungry. I used power at the winch switching box with a switch installed and an ATC waterproof fuse holder. Pump said to use 12 amp fuse. I tried 10 amp first as 12 not available, it blew, so put in a 15 amp one. I figure I’ll use the hose or the winch one at a time, as didn’t want to run a bunch more wire from the breaker area at nav station. In practice I’ve found I can run both winch and hose at same time as long as winch is not working too hard. I used 10 gauge wire from winch box to pump motor area using the same holes I used for the hose. The guy that was helping me on install had a $675 double pump rated at 12 gallons a minute that was way too big to fit thru the door and way too many amps that was available to buy. Plus I already had my $100 pump I wanted to use.

4. Can you elaborate on the accumulator tank and what was required?

Jabsco model # 30573-0000 is what I used, you place this tank after the motor pump, then hose to the shut off valve I have in anchor locker. I ran the hose via going up thru the slider cabinet towards the bow on the port side of the cabinet. Then up to the corner area of the head. Then forward thru the bulkhead to the anchor locker. Allow room for valves and connectors by keeping about 1 1/2″ away from the walls and ceiling is my suggestion. Maybe more depending on your connection stuff in the anchor locker. shut off handles and mounting space needed. Accumulator tank came pressurized at 20 pounds. I haven’t revised this yet as seems to do fine, but they say equalize the tank pressure to the water pressure of the pump. As I remember it was about 1 3/4 inches to drill thru the bulk heads. I tested placement with a long small drill bit first about 1/8″.

Allow extra hose and wire length for service loops, when installed use zip ties & or tape to hold these service loops in place. This way you can pull the units out and see if they work on the soul of the floor for service in future etc. Makes for easier to install rather than hooking up in place. Also use protected spade connectors installed so you can only connect power to the power one and ground to the ground one. If you want more detail let me know.

Thank you in advance,
Moray & Debbie
s/v Sol Purpose
1994 Caliber 40

Pump

Fair winds,
Steve
s/v Code Blue


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